ACDelco 217-3028 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injector Kit with Bracket

If you own a van like this, then you know its a pain to do most work to this motor.My van is a 2001 Gmc Safari with 80,000 miles.I had a p0300 code, so I changed spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, coil, ignition control module, idle air control valve, air filter,fuel filter, fuel cap, pcv valve/hose, and cleaned egr and maf.Still got that p0300 code, but it did run better. My van would heavily misfire when going uphill. Changing those parts fixed that problem. I think my coil was bad (I previously changed spark plugs/wires, dist cap/rotor a few yrs back) , but don't know. Its a 18 year old van so changing those original parts will keep it problem free, hopefully.The problem now is, after my van sat for a long time, it started right up. If I started it up after shutting it down for a short while, it would take a couple of seconds to start. And it still gave me that p0300 code. My scan tool showed it was misfiring at slightly above idle speed. I would say my engine power and idle performance was a 7 out of 10.So now I purchased a fuel pressure tester. Upon testing, it would not hold pressure with key on, engine off. The pressure would read 60psi and drop rapidly to 0. Upon running the engine, pressure was a constant 56psi so that ruled out the fuel pump check valve.Now I checked all my fuel lines/tank for leaks, none found. I read that the fuel pressure regulator is a problem on these vans (4.3 vortec) and it leaks fuel into the plenum when defective. This was confirmed with my fuel pressure test previously.Rather than just replace the fuel pressure regulator, I decided to replace the whole spider assembly which includes the regulator and all necessary gaskets to do the job. This also would upgrade my van to mfi, rather than the troublesome poppet Scpi old style.So after installing this, my van starts right up everytime, idles and performs better. My old fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel, "flooding" the engine and causing that p0300 code.Some advice.-Prepare beforehand by searching google for "replacing spider astro". Read the forums and watch videos.-You have to move the injector lines to their correct position. Just follow the diagram in the instructions and just turn those lines. It might be hard but they will turn, probably the hardest/ stressful part of the job. Make sure the unit is at room temperature at least 70F. Number 3 line goes up and over number 1 line. The rest just plug it in their respective holes.-Do not loosen the 2 nuts on the underside of the spider, thinking that the lines will turn easier.-To remove the cruise control cable, spray alot of wd40 at connector end and wedge a screwdriver between the plastic cable end and the metal bracket. Pry it apart till it pops off, its hard but doable. There is a c-clip holding it on, so make sure the lubricant gets inside the connector end thoroughly.-Remove the passenger seat, so that you can comfortably work. To remove the tray, push the 2 center plug pins located in the bottom of the tray down till it falls out. Then pry the plugs upward and remove tray.-Make sure you generously lube the oval oring that goes on top the spider. The plenum cover will seat easier that way.-Lube the fuel line ends when installing.-Lube the spider wiring connector lightly. I used engine oil to lube all.-You might as well clean your throttle body at the same time.Time invested was 6hrs. I took my time and cleaned whatever part I could. If you have good skills, you can do it.

I installed this on a 1997 Chevrolet K1500 pickup truck with a 4.3L 6 cylinder Vortec engine.The reasons that I suspected that the fuel injector spider was faulty:* PO300 Check engine light code (Random/multiple misfire). The computer threw this code on multiple occasions* Erratic rpm accompanied with "popping" sounds in the exhaust system (it sounded like it was in the area between the driver side exhaust manifold and catalytic converter) whenever the engine was under a load, such as going up a hill or heavy acceleration when attempting to merge onto a highway* excessive fuel smell in my exhaust.As mentioned by other users, this job is not for everyone you need to be patient and take your time. This was my first time doing this particular job and it took me 4 hours.This package includes:Fuel injection spiderGasket setBracket/screwTools that you will need:Safety Glasses/rubber gloves1/4 inch drive ratchet1/4 inch drive extension1/4 inch drive 8mm socket1/4 inch drive 10mm socket16mm flare nut wrenchPliersPickT20 torx bitFlatblade screw driversRazor blade/scraperCleaning solvent (such as Throttle body cleaner)Plenty of shop towelsGeneral instructions (just to give you a rough idea of how to do this job, keep in mind your vehicle may be different and other steps may be needed)Remove air intakeRemove throttle body cableRemove throttle body cable bracket (10mm bolt and a 10 mm nut. Remove entire setup and pull it out of the way.Disconnect all surrounding electrical connections. examples included @:Throttle position sensorIdle air control valvePressure sensorCoil pack/Ignition control moduleRemove the distributor cap with the t20 torx bit. There are two screws, the one on the firewall side will have to be done by feel rather than sight. Its not necessary to remove the spark plug wires, you need to just move the cap out of the way so you can access the fuel line.Bleed off excess fuel/pressure at the schrader valve. A small screwdriver and shop towel can be usedWith a 16mm flare nut wrench, disconnect the fuel line fittings. Remove the fuel line bracket with a 10mm socket.After removing the injector connector, you will see that the fuel lines are held in with a hold down bracket that has (2) 8mm nuts. Once you have that removed, you'll have to use some force to pull upwards to get the fuel line free WARNING!!! Wear your safety glasses and have a shop towel over the lines because gas will spray out. The proper procedure would be to relieve the pressure at the bleeder/schrader valve before disconnecting any part of the fuel lines. I skipped that step but wanted to give you a fair warning.After all of the extra stuff is removed off of the Intake plenum, there are (10) 10mm bolts holding the plenum to the intake manifold. I highly suggest that you mark some bags with where they go. They arent all the same size. On the 4.3 liter vortec there are two at the firewall side, three on the driver side, three on the passenger side, and two long bolts that go through the throttle body/plenum into the intske manifold.Once you are sure that everything is disconnected, grab onto the plenum and pull upwards while rocking it side to side. The injector unit is fastened into a bracket so it will not come out with the plenum. It takes a little effort.Once the plenum is off, you can pinch the tabs on the old injectors and pull them straight out of each cylinder. Using a flat blade screw driver you can pry out the entire spider from the bracket. Than Remove the old bracket because it is not compatible with the new unit.WARNING!! I Highly suggest you put some rags into the large open ports in the intake manifold. You dont want to drop anything down into them such as a socket or bolt.Using a razor blade scraper and throttle body cleaner, gently scrape and clean the mating surface where the plenum and intake manifold join.Install:The new injector unit will have markings on the side to tell you what cylinder each injector belongs to. The lines are not pre bent, but dont be afraid to bend them they are stronger than they look. Rout all of the lines to the proper designation before inserting them entirely. Trust me, there is a good chance that you will have to make some adjustments and reroute the lines. Do not remove the green plastic bits at the end of the lines, when you insert them all you should see sticking out is the silver section of the injector.The rest of the install is basically the same as deinstallation in reverse. There is a specific torque pattern for the bolts that hold down the plenum.Side notes:You will get dirty, and there is a good chance you'll be up on your hands and knees in the engine bay trying to do this job. Its uncomfortable.I cheated and instead of removing the distributor cap/ and disconnecting the fuel lines at the firewall, I GENTLY bent them upwards and out of the way when removing the intske plenum. If you decide to go that route just know that they are a pain to reinstall into the injector connector. You'll have to use your full weight to get the lines to sit down far enough while you install the hold down bracket.I'll come back later and add more info/ tips and tricks. Youtube : k1500 fuel injector and look for a video that 1aauto has of doing an MFI conversion on a 1996 k1500 with a 350. It is very informative and shows every step and tool that you will need, and the video that I referenced to do this jobAlso, this new injector is worth every cent. I have never had a vehicle run this well.. It picks up speed so well, no more erratic rpm or trouble going up hills or merging with traffic. It feels much safer to be behind the wheel. I'll keep you guys updated because I'm sure my miles per gallon will increase as well.