AISIN TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Acura MDX, RDX, RL, RLX, TL, TLX, TSX, ZDX Honda Accord, Crosstour, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline Saturn Vue

My Odyssey is old. It's a 2008 with 149K on it. It had 110k when I bought it, thinking that I'd drive it for a couple years and then get something better.Well, things have changed. I can't even find anyone selling the new car that I want, and a three-year old one with 50k miles costs about as much as the MSRP for a new one. Soooooooo, the old Odyssey is going to be here a while. I;ve grown fond of it - it makes a pretty fair truck. If I pull the seats out, I can stack a crapload of 4x8 sheet goods in the back. We've got to get cracking on the maintence if this pony's going to stay in our stable.YouTube is a big help. Lots of folks post helpful videos showing exactly how to do this medium-difficult job. I checked Amazon for the parts, and found them selling this kit as a Warehouse Deal for $50 off, putting this original-equipment kit in the same financial neighborhood as the ones stamped from pot metal in some basement in South Shanghai. WooHoo! It said that the packaging would be damaged (it was) but everything inside was pristine.The most difficult part of this job is removing the crankshaft bolt. It is installed at the factory with a special nuclear-powered torquing device, powered by the energy of a thousand suns. You will break things trying to get it off. You may get hurt. You will certainly use words that you would never use in front of your kids, or even your wife, as you pull the shattered chunk of snapped 1/2" impact extension from your bleeding forearm as the bolt just sits on the pulley, mocking your puny efforts. Many people say that this task should be attempted first, as if you can't remove this bolt, it's best to just send the parts back and get the credit card ready for a $2K bill from your friendly mechanic, who will heat that bolt with a torch to get it loose, not caring that the rubber insert in the crank pulley will be forever damaged by the heat. It's not HIS car, after all.There is a solution. A lump of metal, dropped to the Earth from the gods - a solution so simple that you can't believe that it would work. It is the Lisle 77080. A half-inch drive 19mm impact socket. What, you say? It can't be that simple? You already HAVE a 1/2 drive 19mm? No. You don't have THIS socket. It's easily 3x as thick as your puny Harbor Freight socket and weighs 3x as much. The idea is that all that extra mass transmits more of the bang-bang from your impact tool into the bolt, and less into the atmosphere.My experience.... I sprayed PB Blaster (there's nothing better) at the crank bolt's surface, waited while I ate breakfast with the missus, and then went out there and put my 120v plug-in Porter Cable 1/2" impact on the bolt in unspin mode. Sixty seconds of nerve-wracking, arm shaking, anvil banging attempts proved fruitless, and since I was starting to smell weird electrical smells from the tool, I decided to give the bolt a break, spraying it again liberally with liquid slipperyness and going back inside for a second cup of coffee (recommended for occasional mechanics). Half an hour later, back for Round 2. Put the tool on the bolt, hit the trigger on the hand-held bolt hammer and the bolt didn't last five seconds.At this point, I was committed to the job. Everything came off easily, just like in the video. I used an M12-powered Milwaukee battery ratchet to save time, and it saved a bunch of it. Thinking about all that ratchet-spinning and knuckle-busting that I was missing made me smile.As it turned out, the old timing belt was oil soaked due to an old serious oil leak from the cylinder-disabling solenoid at the left-front of the engine, something I replaced the week I bought the Odyssey. Other than that, it looked pretty good for almost 150K miles. The old water pump looked good as well. The pump in this kit was a perfect match for the original one that I removed. There are some substandard parts out there, but this certainly isn't one of them. It went on like it was supposed to and so did everything else. All the parts in this kit seemed to be quality items - especially the tensioner. It was indistinguishable from the one that I removed - it was just cleaner. The idlers, likewise. Nice stuff that matched the original parts in performance and appearance.Be aware that the camshaft sprockets are fighting against some valve springs and will be waiting for the first chance they can get to move a bit while you aren't looking. Check your marks. Check your marks. Check your marks. I had everything where it was supposed to be and was about to pull the pin from the tensioner when I dedided to check just one more time..... Yup, I was one tooth off on the rear cam. Easy enough to fix at that point. More difficult if I had pulled the pin..... Rotate the engine a couple of times after (clockwise, unless you want to take the belt off and time the engine again). Check your timing marks a few times until you are certain that it's right. If you removed the spark plugs, the engine's easy to rotate. The maintenance interval for the plugs is the same as the timing belt, so make your life easy and do that at the same time. Once you're satisfied that the belt is installed properly, it's just a matter of bolting on all the bits that you removed to get to the belt, adding coolant and cleaning up. Drop your clothes on the laundry-room floor, go take a shower and make yerself a drink. You've earned it.If you did everything right, your engine will run exactly the same as it did before you started, which will be difficult to explain to your wife.

The media could not be loaded. This is the best timing belt kit you can buy with all original OEM parts with the same brands used on the manufacturing line. I've used a number of them and they go in perfect.As the 3rd gen TLs and Accords (2004-2008) come with an interference fit engine, it's a $4K - $6K plus mistake if you get sub standard parts, something breaks, and you total the engine.Timing belt time in the Accord and TL is 7 years or 105k miles whichever comes first and it's called the 105k service. The 105K service is supposed to include:1 - Timing Belt Kit w Water Pump, this is the only one I 've ever found with the OEM level water pump including the Oring tabs (see video) (this product)1 - Drive Belt Goodyear 4060840 Gatorback Poly-V Belts1 - Thermostat, I got a fail safe that locks open if it breaks so I don't have any chance of overheating the aluminum block Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat1 - Thermostat gasket Fel-Pro 35162 Thermostat O Ring2 - Honda Type 2 Gallon Coolant, flush not neccessary Genuine Honda Parts OL999-9011 Blue Type 2 Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle3 - Honda DW1 ATF Fluid Quart Genuine Honda Fluid 08200-9008 ATF-DW1 Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart6 - NGK 6994 Iridium Spark Plug, Factory OEM NGK (6994) Laser Iridium Spark Plug1 - Engine air filter Fram CA9600 Extra Guard Rigid Panel Air Filter1 - Cabin Air Filter, I got an activated Carbon and Baking Soda Filter and it really makes a difference FRAM CF10134 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air FilterThere is an incredible walkthrough at Acurazine.com in the TL section, google "acurazine.com 784622" and you get an article named "A122: DIY 105k service" with complete walkthrough and all photos.... it's an incredible piece of work, major thank you to the guy who did it.He used a Gates kit, which saves about $60, but I prefer the fully OEM Aisin kit here as the Gates kit has a reported 11% water pump failure rate (!!!!) which is a huge number considering how hard it is to get to. Also, the Aisin pump has the oring retention tabs I mention in the video which is a huge convenience / peace of mind thing.There is definitely no better kit than this one that I have ever seen or heard of.note:This is NOT an easy job, you can slip a little and break the throttle position sensor, slip in another place and get the belt off position by one tooth, slip on the water pump and end up with a leak... it's in a tight spot and you have to suspend the car on stands... you have to get a couple special tools....I know a guy who was trying to do it on ramps and dropped the car on himself with nobody there and ended up waiting for 2 hours until I showed up... he is a particularly big and tough MF so he survived it with one cracked rib which was amazingIf you aren't sure you can do it, buy the kit and pay a local foreign car specialist to do it... most will do it for $300-400...and not just some guy who does it on the side because if he screws it up, a new engine will be at least 3000 done right and he won't help you out.... get a shop that stands behind their work for the extra $100.... you are still out a couple hundred dollars ahead of the dealer and you are sure the honda or acura dealer didn't skimp on the parts and believe me, they do that all the time...some of them will charge you for the water pump and not bother to change it as they rarely fail and the odds are that you will get outside of the warranty period without it happening and they pocket about $200 extra parts and labor.

This kit was perfect and exactly what I wanted. After doing a lot of these over the years the quality of this kit is way better than similar ones from the parts store. Definitely worth it.

I used this kit for my wife's 2013 Acura RDX. All parts Honda/Acura quality and I had no issues with fitment. The timing belt is a Mitsuboshi which is OEM on most Toyotas (I had one on my first gen Tacoma Pre-Runner), although it's Taiwan made, it's OEM quality. Everything else was AISIN. The water pump was identical to the one that came with the engine, all that was missing was the "Honda" stamping in the cast. I had no leaks after install. All bearings on the idler and tensioner pully were high quality. And the all important hydraulic tensioner was OEM quality. Trust this kit!

Used this on my 2012 Honda Odyssey at 75,000 miles and it worked perfectly. Just replaced it again, and it's still going strong! Highly recommend for this vehicle.