PWM Soft Start/Soft Stop Variable Speed DC Motor Speed Controller Recoverable Overcurrent Protection PWM Switch Control 9-70V 35A

I purchased this PWM as it has the low voltage cutoff, soft start and the ability to set the power. It also has the ability to plug in a variable speed pedal and brake pedal. I didnt purchase the variable speed pedal, nor brake pedal, as my son is almost 3. Lets be honest, he will eventually learn to use it, but not at this age.I purchased this as it has the slow start so it doesnt give him whiplash or ruin the gearboxes. At first I didnt understand the instructions that came with it for using the stock non variable speed pedal on our power wheels nascar. I emailed their support and they emailed me right back and asked me how may wires my stock pedal had and what kind of shifter I had, etc. I had a 3 wire pedal and a High/Low/Reverse shifter. They responded and said I would need to remove the wiring for the 2nd switch and just use 1 switch in the shifter which would make it a forward/reverse shifter. I was okay with this as Low never gets used. Pic B is how my power wheels is wired up using this PWM with 100 power, the full 30 second soft start, which actually takes 30 seconds, so youll probably want to change that to 15 seconds and I have my low voltage cutoff set at 17v. Im using 2 Dewalt 20v 8ah batteries in parallel so that is a decent low voltage cutoff. Each battery brand have different low volt amounts, so google yours or play around with it. If your kid is driving it and it stops after a min or two and shows "LO" then your low voltage cutoff is set too high.When you have it wired using Pic B you will notice the LED screen doesnt power on. You have to press the pedal and it will power on in a second or 2, this is what confused me at first, and I was trying to set this up quickly so I actually wired it up matching Pic A so the PWM powers on without the pedal being pressed in. This allowed me to set my settings and tweak them, but you dont want to run it like that when your kid rides it. Why? The soft start wont really work this way and it will eventually power off when your kid decides they need to go back and forth like a bumper car. Ive read that people are burning these up or the soft start doesnt work, Im betting they didnt connect it to match Pic B or they are running (1) 18-24v 3aH battery which isnt going to provide the amperage the car needs especially if they are in the grass, etc. You should always parallel your batteries to give you more amp hours than the old big SLA battery. I really appreciate MGC too the time to work with me and Id recommend them to anyone who wants to have a soft start for their kiddo and control the power and save your drill batteries.

I was one of the first people to buy this “b” version setup; bought the pedal, brake pedal and controller from the same seller. Took the time to install it properly in my son’s power wheel jeep. Ran flawless on Dewalt 20v batteries for one day and my son loved it. Second day it would only move about 2 feet then shut off, then 2 feet and so on. Put up on a stand and saw the same behavior.Contacted the vendor and they were open to trying to help out with it. Suspected that my motors in the jeep were worn out and causing high current cut off. I didn’t mess with it further then as it was winter. Now this year I bought new motors, but went to swap them out and the controller won’t work at all.Just too much trouble. I bought this setup tj make my 20v conversion more reliable and it has done exactly the opposite.

I work on a fleet of older commercial Ford vehicles. It seems the PWM computer control of the radiator fan control modules gets janked up in the older high mileage cars, and proper signaling to the fan control module isn't correct. Also the fan control modules being themselves placed right next to the radiator in a blast of 200 degree air doesn't help matters, Part of the problem may be the cylinder head temperature sensor which is UNDER THE INTAKE MANIFOLD and a total hassle to replace. Also as many in the Amazon reviews sections have found, most if not all of the "generic" fan control modules do not rev up the fan when the AIR CONDITIONING is on, which is VITAL. The problem could also be the car's computer is just janked up and just not emmitting PWM signals properly, and a computer swapwould be a huge expense to deal with. I just wired power from the battery (with 10 gauge wire and positive inline fuse) to the input of this unit and the output of this unit directly to the fan wires (cut the original fan plug off and used crimp connectors). I put a sufficient capacity RELAY on the positive side of the feed to this unit. The relay is triggered on from a positive "key on" circuit from the under-hood fuse box. I used a "piggyback" add-a-circuit fuse tap for that. I set the "time delay" of the unit to 10 seconds, and when activated it slowly revs up the fan without any kind of fuse-blowing surge, which is GREAT. I found that dialing this unit up to a 50% power will keep the car more than adequately cool in fall/winter/spring, and in the summer when air conditioning is used I'll dial it up to 60-70% which I'm sure will be sufficient. The thermostat takes care of regulating engine temperature perfectly. I've had one of the 40 watt automated units working in a car for about 5 months now with no problems. I just installed another in a different car and it's also working fine. These units are VERY USEFUL and seem to be well made. The only other option I found for this kind of unit is "trolling motor controls" which are much more expensive, although they are more waterproof, usually being fully enclosed.

I purchased this the pmw for my kids ride on toy. I’ve purchased several others in the past and this one has many features not included in the others. I had a problem after only a couple days of use and the seller was very responsive to being contacted and resolving the issue.

Bewertung für PWM (Pulsweitenmodulation) für Kinderauto-Umbau:Leider hatte ich bei meiner ersten Bestellung Pech und erhielt ein defektes Gerät. Doch bei der zweiten Bestellung funktionierte alles im Testlauf einwandfrei. Ich wollte damit das Fußpedal eines Kinderautos variabel steuern.Beim Testlauf hatte mein Sohn eine Steigung zu bewältigen. Obwohl ein geichtes Amperemeter nur 17 A anzeigte und der Innenraum mit Kühlventilatoren ausgestattet war, ist das Gerät durchgebrannt. Dies führte dazu, dass mein Sohn plötzlich unkontrolliert mit voller Geschwindigkeit losfuhr. Zum Glück hatte ich einen Killswitch per Funk installiert, der schlimmere Folgen verhinderte.Aufgrund dieses Vorfalls werde ich nun auf einen ESC (elektronischer Drehzahlregler) mit Rückwärtsgang und eingebauter Sicherung umsteigen. Sicherheit geht besonders bei Kindern vor, und ich hoffe, dass der neue Regler zuverlässiger ist.