SENSKY BS010L DC 12V to 30V 3A Mini Pir Motion Sensor Switch,Occupancy Sensor Switch for Gun Safe, Kitchen Cabinet, Pantry, Closet led lighting (Black-With Light Sensor)

The media could not be loaded. Love everything about this little switch! It was simple to install and worked perfectly right out of the box with no adjustments needed to its default settings.I installed this in a deep kitchen cabinet that I use all the time. The inside of that cabinet was dark enough that I’d sometimes need a flashlight to find what I was after. No more! Installed this switch to the top of the cabinet with Velcro, ran a few 12 volt jewelry spotlights across the top and down one side and voila! Perfect light in that cabinet as soon as the cabinet door’s opened.I’d considered a magnetic switch, a push-button switch and a motion sensor switch. So glad I went with this Sensky sensor. If you need a simple switch for a 12 v device, this Sensky switch is a great option!

I am using the BS010l as a motion switch to trigger an LED strip in a metal storage cabinet upon opening.SETUP: It plugged easily into the existing male/female jacks of the system I was using and I found setting the timers and sensitivity to be very easy by following the instructions clearly laid out on the package the sensor came in. Total setup took less than 2 minutes. It seems very user friendly, pretty plug and play.INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: I am very satisfied so far, it triggers the light strip as soon as the cabinet opens and the sensor has line of sight to a body generated IR source (I usually see the lights flick on as they're triggered by my hand as I reach to swing the cabinet open). The light stays on for 8.5 minutes without being triggered again (I timed it several times out of curiosity) and I find its sensitive enough to remain triggered when I leave the cabinet open and am moving about the room anywhere within line of sight of the sensor. DOES IT WORK: it works well! It's very handy and I think it's worth it's cost as long as it continues functioning as it is now. It will be triggered several times a day, every day. If I encounter any problems I will update this review. As of now, I recommend this sensor and I may even pick up another one to rig a similar LED system in a walk in closet.PROS: easy to install, easy to setup, understandable directions included, acceptable build quality, small size, decent looking, works well.CONS: none as of now. Will update if necessary.

I think it works well.I probably bought this for the wrong purpose. I'm using it to trigger a camera for home security.I used a voltage divider and I'm able to read the ~12.23v dropped down somewhere around 3-4V with an ADC in my case MCP3008 with 5V reference. I'm able to trigger the camera with a 300ms delay using Raspberry Pi's built in raspistill command and python os.system to call that command otherwise ran by exec() on command line.Anyway it works for me. The range was not as far as I would have liked, I'd say 20 feet was hoping like 30 but oh well. It was tricky to turn the potentiometers at the back for adjusting sensitivity. The light pot for example I don't even know how to use it in real time. I set the delay to lowest possible and then had it connected to a multimeter to see in real time where (how far) it would trigger, where it would shoot from 0.01V to over 12V.update:now that I'm actually using this thing, I'm not sure how reliable it is, it seems to randomly fire despite the low (0) analog readings and the room is empty (no motion/changes) so I'm not sure, will see if it's the light possibly but even that is constant (inside a house) at night currently. Will see about implementing a sort of debouncer (many fires means definite) versus only 1 is a fluke.I tuned it to work at a distance of just under 12 feet away. Sampling at a rate of 200ms, The peaks are above my 500 threshold according to my notes above. You can see some real time screen grabs as I was testing it.I'll update my code to treat it like a debouncer to only trigger when "true motion" is detected.Left is at rest, right is when I'm walking throughEdit: My final updateThis is not reliable to me, I even tried the "debouncer" or sampling the live data (300ms) if in 4 sequential measurements two were what I was looking for, fire the camera. Even in a dead still room, and nothing is moving (live alone) and no fluctuations that I'm aware of. The sensor randomly spikes sometimes it's once in say 20 measurements, then it'll be 3 almost in a row (which trips my debouncer)It was cool to work with but not reliable for motion sensing to trigger a camera (not take pictures when nothing is happening).Still give it a decent score maybe it's me. Doesn't help the calibrating of this thing is not easy/immediate.I did want to add I'm using a wireless raspberry pi 3 and looking around it seems that it's possible for the wifi to trigger it. So I'm going to try and move the PIR sensor away from the PI. It's also near a router maybe that is part of the problem.Wow, moved it away from the router by at least 10 feet and holy cow, no false positives at all. It's not the Pi's wireless, that hasn't changed (distance between pi and PIR sensor) just that this setup was near a router interesting. Cool!Actually I was able to move it even closer as the place I had it before was an ideal position regarding camera fov and sensor distance from the door.

Works as described - put it into an appropriate volt/amp system where the lights are left in the "on" position, and this accurately detects your presence and completes the power loop. It was very easy to add into the existing power system of an LED light kit.Two elements are inconvenient. First is popping open the plastic case and working tiny knobs to set its sensitivity -- realistically not a huge problem since you'll probably only need to set it up the first time, but you'll end up taking it apart a few times to get it dialed in. Nothing broke which is more than I can say for many plastic-clip based doodads like this. Second, the mounting screw holes on the sensor are super tiny. This really limits the types of screws you can use. Tiny screws are very annoying for seating into wood, or even some MDF, without stripping. My suggestion is while you have it apart, drill a small hole or two into the back side of the plastic case (behind/below the circuit board, not touching it) and screw it down that way -- I cut the factory screw holes off mine with a razor blade to make it fit flush in a small space.One other quirk, I've noticed either a decline in the width of its detection or it has gotten slightly laggy. I approach it from the side in my setup and now have to walk about 2 feet further forward before it notices me, which makes a difference in the dark location it's set up in. I will revise my review if it gets worse, for now I may just tweak where it is pointed.Overall, great value and does exactly what it is made for and a very compact package!

Works great on my Tesla Frunk lights