Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner) Paperback – Illustrated, April 26, 2016

As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave.From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic.One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring.What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean.I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams.Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!

A must read if you’ve ever surfed, skateboarded, or snowboarded. You’ll recognize the commitment it takes to achieve any kind of proficiency in those balance sports. This guy was on staff at The New Yorker, he can write. And he’s surfed all over the globe for 50 some years. A phenomenal read. It’s a memoir and about life as well as surfing. Highly recommended. Deserving of a Pulitzer for sure.

A classic surfing tale - most suitable for hard-core surfing guru's. Interesting, well-told yarn about surfing in the early days of the sport.

Awesome book. I didn’t know what to think going into this. I couldn’t put it down every night. Just had to keep going. Couldn’t figure out what was going on, I’m usually not a big reader. Certainly not a 20 page/night. This one, I was. Then I found out it won the Pulitzer. No wonder, bc the writing is so good. It’s not about surfing as much as a person’s life and how it evolved around surfing. I wasn’t expecting to like it as much as I did and I’m really happy I read it.

I took over a year to read this. Not because it was bad at all. I'm just not a great reader, and it feels like a book that you have the freedom to read at your own pace, largely because it covers many decades in the author's life. I read a few pages before bed every night. It is a calming book. It also raised some questions for me.The author mentions writing to friends, including male friends. That seemed really nice. It also reminded me of how I don't really keep in touch with friends like that. We have overly romanticized actual letters in this era, and so texting, despite being more immediate, feels less in your face and less like a declaration. That seems sad. It was nice to read about that. Maybe he wouldn't have written if he were just a few states away instead of a world away. But back then when there was no internet and long-distance calling wasn't a fun expense, maybe so. This just made me think a lot about how our technology has changed our communication and our levels of intimacy and what we like. I was not alive in the 70s and barely the 80s, but it is strange to think how unimaginable it is currently.The author also mentions how friends that he traveled with wanted to go see something else nearby, so he just stayed in that little town halfway across the world while he waited for them to return in a few days. It's clear that there's no internet at that time, obviously, and likely no New York Times. So he had to pass the time just by surfing by himself and talking with whatever locals or other travelers that he met in the moment. I can't imagine that. We need news and entertainment now all the time.There were just a few little things like that that made me think.This author's style seems very straightforward but not boring. I want to say like Hemingway, but I don't like Hemingway, so that's not at all helpful.