Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml

I've used a LOT of putty in the last 50 years. Believe it or not, the Testors grey putty has been my go-to for most of them, because it's cheap, it's easy to work, and it's ubiquitous. I have switched to Perfect Plastic Putty for a couple reasons, so let me outline them below.First off, I am going to assume I'm addressing the novice-to-intermediate crowd here. The reason is, "experts" have their own reasons for using their chosen products--and that's totally fine, no complaints here. "Beginners" can't really tell the difference between putties, so my review won't help much. It's the crowd that know why to use putty, how to shape it, how to actually USE it, that I address this review.This putty does not have an oil base. This is important, because the putty will NOT leak a little oil out every time you use it (think of mustard that has been sitting: you squirt some out and at first it's vinegar). This is a complication, because, if you are not careful (or if you use it like once a year), you will get a clog in the tube that will require extraction (or throwing away the tube and starting over).The solutions for that are: take a Q-tip and pluck off all (well, most) of the cotton from one end and drive the bare stem through the blue screw-on tip after EVERY use. Then, use the barren Q-Tip and scrape out the excess putty from around the threads of the blue tip. You would have lost this putty anyway if you allowed it to cure in there, so just get in the habit of doing that from the get-go and you'll be happier. The other solution is to unscrew the blue tip and leave it in a small bowl of water until the next time you use it, then dry it out with a Q-Tip and you're ready to go.Lesson: Putty is a consumable. You're going to waste a certain percentage of it even if you were en expert, because you sand away what you don't use. Don't be afraid to sacrifice some of your putty (in the tip) in exchange for a peaceful time doing the part of modeling that you enjoy. You will spend less time doing the ritual of tip preparation than you will trying to unclog the tip when you just want to create. Trust me: the small amount of putty you lose will pay dividends when you go to use the putty and everything flows freely and you can use it the way they intended.I have used this putty with Luer-lok syringes and found minimal improvement over the little blue tip that comes with the tube of Perfect Putty. In fact, I'd say the frustration of using a 3rd-party syringe is not worth the "accuracy" of delivery--especially when you need to make several passes with Perfect Putty to fill a deeper gap. Medical syringes have smaller passages, and Perfect Putty does not flow very well through them without a lot of trembling effort.Speaking of which, you might want to consider multiple passes. 3 thin passes with this putty will dry faster than one big bead of goop. Every time.Moving on: the putty dries white. The picture I've attached is of a pass of putty (pre-shaping, of course) to show how it looks on a larger Reaper miniature. Yeah, the Reaper Bones series are white, but they...don't exactly match. My solution is to use a flat white primer after final shaping and "blend" the wider area over the fill site. What you'll end up with is no clear distinction of top-color, and no sign that the filler was ever used. I say this, because most primer is gray or gray-ish. Even if you use a clear-matte primer, I would recommend that over painting directly over areas that have this putty adjacent to bare resin parts.I do have a minor complaint, but it is MINOR and it is VERY specific, so it might not apply to most people. If you are using this putty on a resin miniature of a relatively-larger scale (like my Reaper dragon), you need to take care not to have excess glue (super-glue) in the joints you want to fill. If you do, and some of the glue runs out (you squished it out), then wherever this putty contacts that dried glue, it will flake off on a dare and leave you a gap. The solution, I've found, is to make sure to check all the joints where you've used glue and make sure that if you want to putty them "closed," you first score the superglue with an X-Acto so the finish is not shimmering. Just make some scrapes on it so the putty has traction. This is also true with the Testors putty, so it's not a flaw of Perfect Putty, it's pre-work for ANY putty: just make sure the joint you're trying to seal has enough purchase for the putty to stick. Otherwise, the putty will Flake Right Off the parts where there's dried glue.Also, I want to address the 1-star reviews for this product: don't listen to them. Such reviews are frustration born of ineptitude and inexperience. Their review should have been of this PRODUCT, not their experience using the product. Keep that in mind. They couldn't make it work--that doesn't mean the product is flawed, it means they are incapable of using it the way the manufacturer intended.Finally, I was *NOT* compensated for this review, nor am I an employee of theirs (or Reaper). I will buy this putty again, and if I ever find something better for pewter-based products, I'll probably say so. THIS product: Perfect Plastic Putty, is exceptionally good (when properly used) for resin miniatures from Reaper and other manufacturers, plastic model kits from Tamiya and Monogram, Gundam models and probably anything where small/short plastic seams need to be sealed for aesthetic purposes.Just remember: this is a tool in your toolbox, it is not the reason your project is perfect. YOU are the reason your project is perfect.

Great product and fast shipping, thank you!

First of all, this product is not faulty in any way. It has done just what it needs to for me, which is to fill very narrow gaps in scale models. I use four different types of putty, and this is probably my least favorite due to how thin it is. This thin characteristic is only really good for very small gaps, in my opinion. But it is easy to apply for those situations. It does not work nearly as well for larger gaps, where the putty needs to bridge across the gap.

works good

I had picked up a partially constructed Tamiya M60A1 model kit, 1/35th scale. The lower hull had been completed, but a gap ran along almost the entire edge of the top and bottom pieces. Researched this item and found the reviews excellent, so I purchased. I used small brochette skewer to use as an applicator. I flattened out one end and used it like a trowel. It dries in about 5 minutes which allowed me to scrape off the excess. Don't worry if you get the putty on other parts of the model. It comes off easily. I don't have a before pic, but have one posted of the after application and paint. Buy with confidence.

This has become my “go to” putty for plastic modeling. Water clean up is great as it makes less sanding and loss of detail. Sands to a feather edge and takes paint readily. Highly recommended.

So it says this is a US based company, but it appears to be a UK based company. It also says the brand is "Armmy Painter", but I don't believe this to be true either. I'm pretty sure Army Painter knows how to spell their name and they are a Danish company.The putty worked just like any other model putty; I compare it most to Tamiya putty. It dries extremely fast so not much working time. But it's intended for small jobs, mostly filling gaps in seams etc... After reading some of the other reviews, it sounds like some people thought it was an adhesive which it's not so that was a misuse of the product. It also seemed like some tried to use it for larger jobs were epoxy putty would have been the better choice. And I have never known Amazon to refuse a return of a defective product and if the putty in the tube has hardened, it's defective. My outer packaging was ripped up; but the putty in the tube was fine although it did seem a bit thick. I had a little trouble getting clean bead lines with it. I used it to fill in seams on 32mm wargaming structures. It is definitely not perfect, just an average putty that does what it should if used as intended.

This is exactly what I was looking for. I have two distinct uses for this putty. First was an emergency. I have a beautiful squirrel top cane that fell over and the ear broke. I needed to reconstruct the ear and other parts of the art work. This putty adheres, forms and sands beautifully, and is quite strong. It does dry with cracks, but dries consistent. Light sanding makes it look it great. It takes well to acrylic paint and the final product looks just like new. So for repair work it is perfect.My second is for 3d modelling fill. I do a lot 3D modelling using a 3D printing. The problem is that some 3D prints that you can download free from the internet and then print, are not completely filled in (most are). Also I like to do last minute finishing on a print just to do a last minute free-hand change. This putty works great for that too.I like the fact that this water washable. Another putty that I reviewed was not and it was a mess, It was hard to work with and did stuck more to hands than to the object that I working with. This putty has none of those issues. I highly recommend it